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Redemption Canyon

Wingate narrows with exactly one established anchor in the whole canyon, which means water anchors, sand traps, and a fiddlestick for the rest of the eight rappels.

This is a route for a team that builds its own anchors, not for a group following bolts. Sections pinch narrow enough that anyone much over 180 pounds will be stemming high, and a potshot or two may be needed for a pothole escape, though a partner assist and some creativity usually cover it. The longest rappel is 70 feet but anchor placements mean carrying 100 foot ropes. Getting there is the real decision: the Swett Wash approach has been done under 12 hours round trip at a steady pace and backpacks well, with clean filterable water at Redemption Spring below the canyon, while the newer approach reaches the head in about 3 hours at the cost of a fourth class downclimb, a scree glissade, and real navigation over rugged untraveled ground. The alternate approach pullout holds one car, so park the rest at the Mount Hillers area. The canyon is close to pristine, so watch for rope grooves. Poison ivy grows in the alcoves and at the exit.

Logistics

Sources

• permitType: https://ropewiki.com/Redemption_Canyon
• nearest town: https://ropewiki.com/Leprechaun_Canyon_(Middle_Fork)
• desc: https://ropewiki.com/Redemption_Canyon
• notes: https://ropewiki.com/Redemption_Canyon
• notes times: http://bluugnome.com/cyn_route/trachyte/trachyte_redemption/trachyte_redemption.aspx